Monday, May 27, 2019

Everest Base Camp 22/12/18 - 26/12/18 (Part 1)

Day 1 (22/12/18) Singapore - Kathmandu

Day started with breakfast with the hall gang at airport cos Mayer only landed at 3am and we gotta fly off at 8 - tight window but we made it happen! 


Grand send-off, in case we didn’t make it back. Also, surprise appearance by a plus-one! 

Flight to Delhi was without drama but the next flight got delayed for 1.5 hours so we had lunch in the airport - Indian food was normal, no tummyache at least. 


Not too bad in my opinion 


Off we go for the second flight! 


Spot the Himalayan range 


And we arrived! First time at this airport that we’ll be coming back a few more times...


Then the bad news broke out - my duffel bag was detained cos my powerbank was checked in...

Met our guide and trek manager who were both really helpful. Checked in, settled currency, SIM and some simple grocery and its time for New Orléans Bar! 


First look at the Kathmandu streets! 

Super nice place with a strong European feel - we set by the fireplace under the 11 degrees night, surrounded by the festive Xmas set up, and enjoyed the marvellous live music by this talented singer. Good food and service was a bonus 

10/10 would return, as we did


Day 2 (23/12/18) Kathmandu
Since plans were disrupted, we made the best of what we have - woke late for a lazy breakfast, nothing marvellous, before heading down to the Durbar Square. 

All them guides waiting outside preparing to prey on innocent tourist like us 

After some touting from the guide and bargaining from us, we decided to hire Dev to take us around. He was sincere and nice, and rather knowledgeable about the structures, religions, and traditions of the country. 

There were more pigeons than humans tho

We found out that Siva’s ride is a Cow and Vishnu’s ride is a Garuda, so when we see them at the entrance, you know who’s the god inside. Apparently the shape of stupa was also a reflection of the Banyan tree (which Buddha sat under when he got enlightened). After numerous Buddhist and Hindu temples (including an erotic temple) later, we also got to meet the Living Goddess! 

Couldn't take a photo of the goddess but this is where she pops her head out from. Also, supporting beams were seen everywhere around Kathmandu ever since the 2015 earthquakes. In fact, some buildings were still in shambles and just simple hoarded up... 

Headed back straight to hotel to meet Lakpa so that we could head to Monkey temple next. Monkeys were meh but the view from this temple was really not bad at all. 

Coloured banners are common in all temples around this city

Hung around before heading to Pashupati temple. We got smarter this time and skipped the entrance fee by going through the backdoor, and we saw this:-

We only realise what was going on and burning later on. And it explains the puzzled look we had from the locals when we innocently walked past... 

This one was abit heavier - we got to see the ritual for the cremation of the dead. 

This is the river where they clean the bodies for the final time, before cremating them by the river banks. 

Since the airport was near, we thought we’d try our luck to pick my baggage up if it’s on the same scheduled flight as the one we came in the previous day. But first the flight was delayed, then we were given very confusing instructions, and we all got really restless running around for one stupid bag. And it all amounted to nothing at all - when the plane landed and the bags were out, mine was’t there... 

So we had no choice but to deploy our contingency - buy equipment. Silver linings being my equipment wasn’t the best fit; there was the alternative to buy; things would have been much worse without the flexibility to change our itinerary if we were traveling in a big group or if it was the peak season; we had a spare day; we could potentially descend quickly to shorten the itinerary (we did, too quickly in fact); and I have most of the more-expensive equipment (boots, backpack, winter jackets) with me. Now just hope the worst is over and things turn for the better from here on out (afternote: it did)! 

So mad rush to get the necessities and essentials - bare minimum but that’s just life I guess, shit happens, plus this was partially my own fault. Just glad I had ahzong with me and wasn’t solo tripping like I had intended to (because subsequently we realised my ATM didn’t work and he saved the day yet again; and oh, the luggage were all in his name so he had to front everything... majorly grateful). 

Then it’s finally welcome dinner, super sumptuous and the local rice wine was rather potent. Some packing and mental prep later, it’s time to enjoy our last night of warm shower and heated room...

Day 3 (24/12/18) Kathmandu - Lukla - Phakding
It’s finally here! Set off early in the morning on one of the world’s most dangerous flight landing at the world’s shortest runway - Lukla! But first, let’s enjoy some flight delay lol. 

Flight tickets were printed wrongly (should have been KTM -> LUA) but I don't ask for much, just a safe flight to bring us where we want to go

And not once. Flight was scheduled on 7:15, got pushed to 9:35, inbound flight landed only at 10:35, and Lukla airport was announced close due to inclement weather after we boarded the plane. 

And one last selfie to post on social media in case this is the last you see of us LOL

But as an indication that Lady Luck is turning back to smile at us, the flight was ready to take off after a 15-min break - and we’re in the sky by 11:30! 

This during our first attempt to fly~

And this on our second attempt before we fly off! This is all of the plane haha

And this is all the protection we had against the thundering propeller right beside us - better than nothing! 

But windy weather also meant a challenging flight for the pilots, and for us, exhilarating. The plane was rocking side to side and up and down when we were getting close to the mountain range! Rough landing and a short runway, but we made it out in one piece nonetheless and it’s definitely a ride to remember. 


And we survived the notorious Lukla Airport! Heart skipped several beats but definitely made us feel much alive...
Met our portal, Bagthan, and then it’s lunch time! Not long after, we’re off on our trek! 


Thanks for the warm welcome and that's Bagthan waiting for us after our delayed flight (in fact, he started waiting since the day before)


千里之行始于足下

Supposedly 3-hour walk was completed in 2 hours and we reached our accomm for the night in Phakding: Snowland Hotel. 


Religiously spinning every single one of these Buddhist bells we came across - could definitely do with more good luck! 


First of numerous suspension bridge crossing where we had to queue behind herds of Mules (and in the later parts, Yaks)


And these huge rocks with Buddhist scriptures were commonplace at the lower altitude (human for scale!) 

Nice cozy little hotel, settled down and took a short nap before dinner (legendary Dal Baat)! Some reading, packing and chit chatting, and it’s time for an early night. 

Day 4 (25/12/18) Phalding - Namche 
It’s Xmas! 


No white Christmas but yes, it's this cold... 

Was a good 10 hour sleep and a nice breakfast (normal set breakfast) before we moved off to the next stop: Namche Bazaar! 


Tried our hands (or head) at carrying our loot as our porter does it. Not happening... 


Leaving the experts do what they do best

Completed the whole trek in 6 hours, including a 1-hour lunch (mixed pizza was less impressive than I thought but still good nonetheless) and we reached Namche (and crossed 5 suspension bridge). 


When 3+4 = 5


Rules and regulations


Something about bridges and lakes


"Are we really gonna climb up there?" - That's the Hilary Bridge we're pointing at, highest one in the region


First look at Namche Bazaar - world's highest bazaar 
Namche was surprisingly quiet for  a Xmas day. Checked in at our accom: The Nest, and went out to take a walk and get whatever things we were still short of. 


World's highest Irish bar

Nap and dinner (chicken sizzler was good!) and we’re off the the highest Irish bar in the world! And once again, it’s uncharacteristically quiet. Some beer and red wine later, we’re back to our accom for more sleep...

Day 5 (26/12/18) Namche acclimatization 
Acclimatization day! Woke up naturally at 6 and lazed around for a bit before we headed down for Apple pancake breakfast. 


"Apple" pancake

Set off for a short hike to Tenzing Norgay’s statue before we went up the steep steps to the Everest View Point. 


Hero-like status, Hero-like statue

Decided to skip Hotel Everest View since it’s the same view as the view point, with the obligation to order a drink or two. Galloped our way back down to Namche. 


Bird's eye view


Being in the mountains really puts things into perspective

Settled down and chilled and then it’s lunch (fried Momo was actually deep fried but still good)! A short nap and some lazing around to wild away the afternoon. 


Us in our natural habitat, before the down sleeping bags were deployed 

Early dinner (Sherpa stew was satisfying!), preparation next day’s trek towards Tengboche/Pangboche, and we’re back to chilling (aka reading books and using wifi). Nights are getting colder and sleep wasn’t as comfortable as the previous night but I’ll still take tea houses over tents any time...